By Dominic Reeve
A thorough advent to all facets of coastal tactics, morphology and layout of coastal defences, that includes large distinct modelling recommendations and various case experiences exhibiting real examples of mathematical modelling in program. excellent for college students, this can be additionally a vital reference for coastal administration professionals.
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Additional resources for Coastal Engineering: Processes, Theory and Design Practice
Pressure sensors located on the seabed can therefore be used to measure the wave height, provided they are located in the transitional water depth region. The wave height can be calculated from the pressure variation by calculating Kp(z) and subtracting the hydrostatic pressure (mean value of recorded pressure). This requires the solution of the wave dispersion equation for the wavelength in the particular depth, knowing the wave period. This is easily done for a simple wave train of constant period.
These sources of beach material have subsequently been supplemented by coastal erosion of soft cliffs and the reduced but continuing supply of sediments from rivers. 3 Time and space scales Beaches are dynamic, changing their profile and planform in both space and time in response to the natural forcing of waves and currents, sediment supply and removal, the influence of coastal geological features and the influence of coastal defences and ports and harbours. Time scales range from micro (for wave by wave events), through meso (for individual storm events) to macro (for beach evolution over seasons, years and decades).
Wave energy is transmitted by individual particles which possess potential, kinetic and pressure energy. Summing these energies and multiplying by the particle velocity in the x-direction for all particles in the wave gives the rate of transmission of wave energy or wave power (P), and leads to the result (for an Airy wave). 5) the group wave velocity cg ¼ c/2, and in shallow water cg ¼ c. Hence, in deep-water wave energy is transmitted forward at only half the wave celerity. This is a difficult concept to grasp, and therefore it is useful to examine it in more detail.